Monday, 11 August 2008

ay. niños. qué aprendan. qué se mejoren. qué suban a lo que se merezcan.

Chile is an interesting place. I have to begin by saying that I know I’m not qualified to judge – anyone or anything. So these are my opinions and my own unique perceptions. ¿Entendido? Ok, good.

Chile is an interesting place. And the people who live here are as diverse as the landscape. If you’re unfamiliar with the geography of Chile—the country stretches over 4000km, bordered by Peru and Bolivia in the north and Argentina in the south. In the far north, desert. In the far south, Antartica. And sandwiched in between, Southern California. (Not literally. And I suggest looking it up on a map if you still think we can get together for a coffee while you’re studying abroad in Europe. … )
Chile probably isn’t as “third world” as you think it is. Again, only my one-sided opinions here. They are very proud of themselves for being one of the most progressive South American countries. And there is a lot of progress in the cities. But outside the city—campamentos, favelas, suburbios, slums.

And classism is the new black. But, of course, it’s nothing new. The darker the skin, the more the Mapuche blood, the lower the class, the more one stinks in the nostrils of the nation. A Chilean teacher I work with once asked me how you say “flaite” in English. I had heard it translated as “tacky” but I didn’t really know how the word was being used, so she had to describe it to me: You know, like, someone who doesn't have good manners. Someone who’s … gross! Someone who smells bad and their clothes are dirty. Like… people without very much education.

...Hm. Hmmmmmm. Are you serious? You're serious, aren't you?... (Expletives are exploding in my mind.) Do you mean the people you press down because you need to make sure you’re better than someone else?

I can’t say enough that I’m not one to judge…but. People are people. Mapuche (who are the aboriginal race of people in Chile…largely interwoven with the [far better] blood of the descendants of European colonizers by now) consist of flesh and blood and a few other details, just like every other person I’ve ever met or seen or heard of. And if you find them stupid and uneducated, have you offered them opportunities for education?

It’s not uncommon to see children in the street begging for money. And when I say begging, I don’t just mean asking for money, dressed in rags, playing the pity card. Parents can take their children out of school to “work”—i.e. selling gumdrops on the sidewalk, playing instruments in the metro stations, juggling in the intersections, reciting verses (you might call it rapping) on busses. Anything to bring in money. And it’s not right. And it’s not the way forward, by any means. But, …., it’s happening. And it’s everywhere.

There were four boys on the bus I took home tonight. One of them went on (in a memorized monologue) for about five minutes saying more than I could understand about not wanting to work but needing money—and everything else that you would expect to hear from a ten year old who spends his days on Transantiago begging for money. They couldn’t be more than ten, if that. Ten year olds should be in school. Ten year olds should be in school!!!

The boys got off without much fanfare. And at the next stop another man got on with a guitar. (There are many musicians who play on the busses.) He began with a beautiful traditional folklórico song about Chile: Everyone loves you, Chile! You are the most beautiful, Chile! Everyone praises you, Chile! Chile Chile Chile! Where everything is perfect!

I can see some ducks that might need to be put in a row. And, I mean, it’s not my country or anything… but I’m a bit disappointed with myself when I head off, text books in hand, to give businessmen and the army of Chile just a bit more of the upperhand…

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